Lubec/Campobello Island
Where the Sun Rises First
WHY HERE?
As the easternmost town in the contiguous United States and home to the iconic West Quoddy Head Lighthouse, Lubec had been high on my Maine bucket list for years. I finally visited in mid-June, hoping to catch the lupines in bloom, and they did not disappoint. What I didn’t expect was just how quiet the town would be. Visiting from Sunday through Tuesday, many businesses were closed, and at times it felt like I had the entire town to myself, adding to the feeling of being somewhere far removed from the rest of the world.
Lubec feels remote, authentic, and wonderfully untouched. It feels like a place at the edge of the world, in the best possible way. Tucked deep Downeast near the Canadian border, it has managed to preserve its character while escaping the crowds that flock to more famous Maine destinations. The pace is slower, the scenery wilder, and the rewards for exploring feel even greater. Dramatic cliffs, some of the strongest tides in the world, rocky shorelines, dense coastal forests meeting the sea, endless ocean views, and frequent visits from fog create a landscape that feels both rugged and magical.
It is also one of the few places in Maine where you can be in Canada in just a matter of minutes. A quick drive across the bridge brings you to Campobello Island, where you can explore more lighthouses, visit the Roosevelt summer cottage, or simply enjoy the slower pace and scenic coastal views. If you love lighthouses, coastal scenery, wildflowers, and the feeling of truly getting away from it all, Lubec offers a rare glimpse of Maine that remains refreshingly unchanged.




The fog rolled in, and so did my inability to keep things short! Head to the Substack app to read the full Lubec & Campobello guide, and while you're there, come say hi on my new Instagram page (@postcardsfromvacationland).



FUN FACTS (YOU DIDN’T ASK FOR) & SALTY SIDE NOTES:
Originally known as Eastport Point, Lubec was renamed in 1811 after Lübeck, a prosperous trading port in northern Germany on the Baltic Sea (body of water bordered by Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Finland, Poland, Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania). While no definitive reason was recorded, local leaders are believed to have chosen the name because Lübeck was one of Europe’s most successful maritime cities, and they hoped to associate the growing Maine community with its reputation as a thriving center of trade. Today, the connection serves as a reminder of Lubec’s long history as a town shaped by the sea.
In the late 1800s and early 1900s, Lubec was one of the busiest herring processing centers in North America. At its peak, dozens of smokehouses and canneries lined the waterfront, earning the town a reputation as the sardine capital of the world. Interestingly, many of the “sardines” packed in Maine were actually young herring, which is why you’ll often see references to Maine’s sardine and herring industries used interchangeably. While the canneries are gone, Lubec’s fishing heritage remains an important part of the town’s identity.
Just offshore lies the Old Sow, a massive tidal whirlpool created by the enormous tides of the Bay of Fundy. It can measure more than 250 feet across and is considered the largest tidal whirlpool in the Western Hemisphere.
During Prohibition (1920-1933), the waters around Lubec became a hotspot for smuggling. With Canada just across the channel and the United States banning alcohol, rum runners took advantage of the area’s foggy coastline, hidden coves, strong tides, and countless islands to secretly transport liquor into Maine.
By the late 1800s, Bar Harbor had become one of America’s most popular summer destinations. Seeking a quieter retreat, the Roosevelt family purchased a summer cottage on nearby Campobello Island in 1883. They were drawn by the rugged scenery, cool ocean breezes, and relative isolation of this remote corner of Maine and New Brunswick. Franklin Roosevelt spent many summers here, sailing the local waters and exploring the coastline. More than a century later, it’s easy to understand the appeal. While much of coastal Maine has grown busier, Lubec and Campobello still retain the sense of remoteness and tranquility that first attracted the Roosevelts.
FOOD & DRINK:
Before diving into the food recommendations, a quick disclaimer: I visited from Sunday through Tuesday in mid-June, which is still considered shoulder season in this far corner of Maine. I didn’t fully appreciate just how limited some restaurant and coffee shop hours would be. There were a few moments when I genuinely wondered whether I’d experience caffeine withdrawal before finding an open coffee shop or be forced to survive on granola bars for the remainder of the trip. Thankfully, neither happened.
Many businesses operate on reduced schedules until the heart of summer, with longer hours and more consistent openings typically arriving in late June and July. My advice is to check hours before you go, especially early in the week. Also, don’t blindly trust Google. I found several listings with incorrect hours, so you’re better off checking a business’s website, Facebook page, or giving them a quick call. The places I did manage to visit were well worth the effort, and I still left with a list of spots I’d love to try on my next trip. If you make it to one of the places I missed, I want to hear about it!
Northstar Coffee: As a lover of independent coffee shops, this was at the very top of my Lubec list. In a perfectly Maine twist, I arrived bright and early Monday morning only to find a sign announcing they were now closed on Mondays beginning June 15, which just happened to be the exact day I was there! Since they were also closed Sundays and Tuesdays, my Sunday to Tuesday visit was a masterclass in bad timing. I did at least take a peek through the window, and it looked exactly like the kind of place I seek out when traveling: a cozy community gathering spot serving locally roasted coffee, pastries, baked goods, sandwiches, and seasonal specials. Formerly known as Narrow Escape Coffee House, Northstar reopened in April 2026 with a new name, fresh branding, and updated menu. Reading the glowing Google reviews afterward only made me more jealous. If you’re in the area and find them open, this seems like a must-visit. It will remain starred on my Google Maps and firmly on my list for next time!!


After a long day of driving and exploring, Cohill’s pub was the perfect place to unwind. I grabbed a seat at the bar, ordered a local beer and a delicious salad, and looked out the large waterfront windows. I assume there was a harbor out there somewhere, but on my visit the fog was putting on quite a performance! The atmosphere strikes a perfect balance between cozy pub and elevated dining, with a menu that changes frequently based on what’s fresh and available. The building itself has quite a history, having served over the years as a sardine packing plant, grain store, and even a pet food factory before being beautifully restored into the inn and restaurant it is today. Often noted as the easternmost pub and inn in the United States, it has also earned recognition from Yankee Magazine as one of New England’s best seaside pubs. Adding to its personality, it’s a proud Philadelphia Eagles outpost tucked deep in Patriot’s territory.


Fisherman’s Wharf Restaurant is a local institution and one of those places you really can’t miss when visiting Lubec. Located right on the water, you couldn’t get much closer to the bay unless you were in a boat. Housed in a former sardine factory that has since been transformed into a boutique inn and restaurant, it’s a fitting place to enjoy some of the seafood that helped shape the town’s history. I stopped in for lunch craving a chicken Caesar wrap and was not disappointed. The service was friendly, the prices were reasonable, and the waterfront views were hard to beat. That said, next time I’m ordering the lobster stew served in a bread bowl, which seems to have quite a following!




Located right in downtown Lubec, Watershed Tavern was another spot I had hoped to try, but my visit didn’t quite line up with the current hours. At the time of my visit, the restaurant was open Wednesday through Saturday from 4-9 p.m., with expanded Tuesday through Saturday hours beginning June 23, just after I left town. Reservations are recommended, though bar and deck seating are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Even though I didn’t get to eat here, I couldn’t help peeking inside! The interior looked warm and inviting, with a polished wood bar, cozy lighting, and a thoughtful mix of historic and coastal touches that felt true to Downeast Maine. The menu focuses on elevated regional fare with an emphasis on local ingredients and flavors of the region. Judging by the reviews and photos, this is one of Lubec’s standout dining destinations and firmly on my list for next time.
What says Maine quite like a hot dog? Opened in 2024, Downeast Dog House is a newer addition to Lubec’s food scene featuring locally made W.A. Bean hot dogs and sausages, a longtime Maine favorite, along with homemade soups and daily specials. It’s also located right around the corner from Lubec Brewing Company, which feels like a pretty perfect pairing: a local beer followed by a Maine hot dog. My husband is the true hot dog connoisseur in the family, and if he had been with me, there’s no chance we would have skipped this stop. The Dog House is currently open Thursday through Sunday, though as with many businesses in Lubec, it’s worth checking their Facebook page for the latest hours and updates.


Lubec Brewing Company was my first stop after arriving in town, and I knew right away I was in the right place. There were lupines blooming in the outdoor garden, friendly faces behind the bar, music playing in the background, and a relaxed atmosphere that immediately made me feel at home. Founded in 2015, the brewery has become a gathering place for both locals and visitors in one of the most remote corners of Maine. There is something undeniably satisfying about sipping a locally brewed beer just a few miles from the easternmost point in the contiguous United States. While the brewery doesn't have a full kitchen, food trucks and pop-up vendors are frequent visitors during the season. Whether you’re a craft beer enthusiast or simply looking for a place to unwind after a day of lighthouse hopping and exploring, Lubec Brewing Company is well worth a stop.




Small Town Takeout has built a loyal following for its burgers, sandwiches, and easy takeout fare. Don't let the simple strip mall exterior fool you. This is the kind of place locals recommend, and visitors are happy they found. It’s a great option after a day of hiking, lighthouse chasing, or exploring Campobello, especially if you want to grab dinner and head to the beach or waterfront for a picnic. They’re currently running summer hours, open Thursday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Monday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. As always in Downeast Maine, it's worth checking their Facebook page for the latest hours, specials, and updates.
Kippy’s: This cash only spot on County Road feels like the kind of place every small-town needs. Under new ownership, Kippy’s has built a reputation for serving some of the best pizza around, made with homemade dough, a signature sauce, and its own grated cheese blend. Be sure to save room for dessert too. The homemade sweets are every bit as popular as the pizza!!
The Shore Thing: People consistently rave about the fish and chips here, with many calling them some of the best in the area. Known for generous portions and great value, The Shore Thing serves fresh seafood that keeps both locals and visitors coming back. Nearly everyone agrees it's well worth the wait!
For ice cream, head to Love At First Light Gift Shop & Ice Cream Stop on Water Street. They serve Gifford’s hard ice cream along with a charming gift shop and waterfront views across the Lubec Narrows toward Campobello Island. It’s a delightful stop and the perfect place to grab a scoop and wander along the waterfront on a summer evening. The views of the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial Bridge and Campobello beyond only add to the experience. They also keep generous seasonal hours, which is always a plus in a town where many businesses operate on limited schedules.
Other mentions~ McFadden’s Variety: Every small Maine town seems to have that one store that keeps everything running, and in Lubec, that’s McFadden’s. Part convenience store, part grocery, and part community hub, it’s the place to stop for coffee, snacks, drinks, sandwiches, or any forgotten essentials. When limited business hours leave you wondering where to find your next meal or caffeine fix, McFadden’s is often the answer. Morano’s Authentic Pizza: One place I was disappointed to miss was Morano’s Authentic Pizza. Known for its New Jersey-style thin crust pizza, it earned a devoted following among both locals and visitors and became one of Lubec’s most beloved dining destinations. Owner Ginny Morano announced the closure of the restaurant in 2025, making it another casualty of the challenges facing small-town restaurants. I’m hopeful the ovens will fire up again someday because I’d still love the chance to try one of those legendary pies for myself.
Since most visitors to Lubec will find themselves crossing the bridge into Campobello at least once, it’s worth mentioning a few favorite food stops on the Canadian side!
The Porch at Friar’s Bay: This place quite literally saved me when I couldn’t find an open coffee shop in Lubec. Not to be dramatic, but the caffeine situation was becoming dire. Located right on Friar’s Bay, The Porch serves breakfast, coffee, sandwiches, baked goods, and light lunches with beautiful waterfront views. As an added bonus, it happened to be surrounded by blooming lupines during my visit, which felt wonderfully serendipitous!



Mother Mushroom Brewery & Farmstay: I’m pretty sure you could hear my brakes screeching when I spotted the “OPEN” flag on the side of the road. On a Monday, no less. A nanobrewery in the middle of Campobello Island? As a true crime fanatic, I fully acknowledge that being lured down a quiet country road by the promise of craft beer is probably exactly how I end up on a Dateline episode someday. Fortunately, instead of becoming the subject of a podcast, I discovered great beer!
I was greeted by owner and brewer Zoltan, whose enthusiasm for beer is every bit as memorable as the beer itself. Founded in 2024, Mother Mushroom is the first and only brewery on Campobello Island and proudly bills itself as being located “just east of the easternmost brewery in America,” a slogan that feels perfectly Downeast. The brewery specializes in small-batch lagers and other thoughtfully crafted beers, many with creative twists that reflect Zoltan’s enthusiasm, creativity, and passion for brewing.
The artwork on the cans is impossible to miss and feels as whimsical and distinctive as the brewery itself. Between the colorful labels, the unique beers, and the warm hospitality, it quickly became one of my favorite unexpected discoveries of the trip. Some places serve good beer. Others create an experience. Mother Mushroom manages to do both.
One of my favorite parts of traveling is seeking out local breweries. Yes, I enjoy the beer, but it’s also one of the easiest ways to connect with a place and the people who call it home. Every brewery has a story, and more often than not, you’ll find yourself chatting with locals, swapping travel tips, or meeting passionate owners who are deeply invested in their communities. In an age where so much travel can feel rushed and transactional, breweries create opportunities for genuine conversations and unexpected connections. If you’re planning to bring some beer home, Canadians are currently allowed to bring up to 18 cans of beer across the border for personal use, which may or may not have influenced a purchase or two. I also secretly hope someone will stumble across my Untappd (@lpalmer628) profile and offer me a full-time job traveling around tasting beer. A girl can dream, right?


The Prince Café: Located within Roosevelt Campobello International Park, The Prince Café is a great lunch stop after touring the Roosevelt Cottage. Open daily from noon to 6 p.m. during the season, it serves soups, sandwiches, baked goods, and light fare overlooking the bay.
Pier Waterfront: A Campobello classic. Located in Wilson’s Beach, Pier Waterfront serves fresh seafood, lobster, and waterfront views. They also host popular wing nights and bucket-of-beer specials. Wings, a cold beer, and a waterfront table? That’s a pretty hard combination to beat.
Herring Cove Restaurant: Located at the island’s golf course, Herring Cove offers breakfast, burgers, seafood, and deck seating overlooking the water. Even if you’re not golfing, the peaceful setting and beautiful views make it worth a visit.
The Scoop Shack: Located behind the Campobello Gift House, this seasonal ice cream stand is the perfect reward after visiting Head Harbour Light or touring the Roosevelt grounds. Open daily from noon to 8 p.m., it serves a rotating selection of flavors. A recent Facebook post highlighted Bubble Gum, Caramel Praline, Coyote Canyon, and Cherry Cheesecake as just four of the many choices available.
Nikki’s Island Convenience: Don’t overlook this local favorite for coffee, snacks, drinks, and quick grab-and-go items. It’s a handy stop before heading out to explore the island.
Campobello Value Foods: Part grocery store and part deli, this is a great place to pick up sandwiches, snacks, drinks, and picnic supplies before spending the day lighthouse hopping or exploring the island’s trails and beaches.
THINGS TO DO:
West Quoddy Head Lighthouse: Let’s be honest, this was the main(e) reason I came to Lubec. After spending my first two days wrapped in fog, I wasn’t entirely convinced the weather would cooperate. On Tuesday morning, however, I was awakened by an unfamiliar sight: sunshine. After two days of gray skies, I barely recognized it. I quickly got dressed and headed for West Quoddy Head Lighthouse, thankfully only a few minutes from where I was staying at West Quoddy Station.
Watching the first rays of sunlight illuminate the lighthouse’s iconic red-and-white candy-striped tower was one of those travel moments that lives up to every expectation. The small sunrise crowd had already dispersed, leaving me with a rare stretch of quiet to take it all in. Standing at the easternmost point of the contiguous United States and watching the first light of the day hit the coast felt a little surreal. It was one of those pinch me moments that I’ll remember long after the details of the trip fade.
The lighthouse itself dates to 1808, when President Thomas Jefferson authorized the construction of a light station to help guide ships through the often foggy and dangerous waters of the Bay of Fundy. The current tower was built in 1858 and remains an active aid to navigation today, maintained by the United States Coast Guard. Its distinctive candy-striped appearance, added in the 1960s, has since become one of Maine’s most recognizable landmarks.
After admiring the lighthouse, I explored portions of the Coastal Trail, which winds along dramatic cliffs overlooking the ocean. Along the way, I stopped to admire a giant spruce burl, an odd bulbous growth that looked almost like the tree had swallowed a beach ball. Burls form when trees experience stress or injury, and considering the relentless wind, salt spray, and storms that batter this coastline, it seemed perfectly at home here. The farther I walked, the more I appreciated just how rugged this landscape is and how much resilience it takes for anything to grow on this exposed stretch of coast.
I also made my way to Gulliver’s Hole, a deep crevice carved into the volcanic rock by centuries of pounding surf. Standing at the edge and looking down into the narrow chasm was a reminder of the incredible forces that continue to shape this coastline. Combined with the lighthouse, the trails, and the raw beauty of the landscape, West Quoddy Head is much more than a quick photo stop and easily one of the highlights of any visit to Lubec.








Monica’s Chocolates is a longtime Lubec favorite specializing in handmade chocolates, fudge, truffles, and other sweet treats. The shop feels delightfully old-fashioned, the kind of place where it's impossible to leave empty-handed. Beyond the chocolates, you'll find gifts that reflect owner Monica's Peruvian roots and the story of a woman who came to Maine from Peru and built the business into the beloved local institution it is today. Over the years, the shop has helped create local jobs and has played a meaningful role in bringing visitors to this far corner of Maine. Whether you're looking for a gift to bring home or simply something to satisfy your sweet tooth, it's worth stopping in to support a business that has had such a positive impact on the Lubec community.
Mowry beach: One of the area's favorite spots for beachcombing and searching for sea glass, Mowry Beach is best explored at low tide when the shoreline stretches far out into the bay. During my visit, I had the entire beach to myself, which only added to the feeling of being at the edge of the world. Looking out at the offshore sparkplug lighthouse, I briefly convinced myself it might be possible to walk out to it. As I started across the mudflats, it quickly became apparent that this was more illusion than reality. While I didn’t have much luck finding sea glass at Mowry Beach itself, I was rewarded later at a small beach tucked beside the parking area right in downtown Lubec, where I found a few colorful pieces to bring home.



Lost Fishermen’s Memorial: Tucked along Lubec's waterfront, the Lost Fishermen's Memorial serves as a powerful reminder of the risks that shaped life in this fishing community. The granite wave sculpture honors fishermen from both sides of the border who never returned home from the sea. Set against views of Campobello Island, Mulholland Point Lighthouse, and the Lubec Narrows, it's a peaceful place to pause and reflect on the maritime heritage that helped build this corner of Downeast Maine. The memorial adds an important layer of context to the town’s story and serves as a reminder that the sea has long been both a livelihood and a source of sacrifice for the families who call this region home.


McCurdy Smokehouse Museum: For anyone interested in Lubec’s history, the McCurdy Smokehouse Museum is worth a stop. Once one of the largest sardine processing facilities in the United States, the smokehouse offers a fascinating look at the industry that helped build Lubec. Touring the preserved smokehouse provides a glimpse into the daily lives of the men and women who worked here and helps tell the story of how this remote coastal town became a thriving fishing and canning center.
Bold Coast Trail System: Located about 30 minutes from Lubec, the Bold Coast Trail System is one of the most spectacular hiking destinations in Maine. Unlike Acadia's polished carriage roads and crowded viewpoints, the Bold Coast feels wild and untamed. The trails wind through dense spruce forests before emerging onto dramatic cliffs overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. I wasn't able to fully explore the trail system during my visit, which gives me yet another reason to return. If you're a hiker or simply love rugged coastal scenery, this belongs high on your Downeast Maine itinerary.
Clutter Shop Antiques: Packed to the brim with antiques, housewares, vintage clothing, jewelry, toys, books, and collectibles, Clutter Shop Antiques is the kind of place where one person’s clutter becomes another person’s treasure. Unfortunately, the shop was closed for vacation when I was in town, so I wasn't able to visit myself. Someone please check it out for me and report back because it’s at the top of my list for my next trip to Lubec!!
West Quoddy Gifts: Located just before the iconic candy-striped lighthouse, West Quoddy Gifts is a family-owned shop that has been welcoming visitors since 1990. Filled with lighthouse souvenirs, Maine-themed gifts, local apparel, and nautical treasures, it's an easy place to spend some time browsing. I found myself ducking in to escape the rain during my visit and could easily have stayed longer.


Lubec T-Shirt Company: Specializing in authentic coastal Maine apparel, custom printing, and unique gifts, Lubec T-Shirt Company is a great stop for anyone looking to bring home a wearable reminder of Downeast Maine. From t-shirts and sweatshirts to locally inspired gifts, the shop offers plenty of ways to take a little piece of Lubec home with you.
Black Arrow Farm: Located on Route 189 near Whiting Corner, Black Arrow Farm is a small hobby farm and homestead offering fresh eggs, baked goods, and made-to-order sourdough bread. The owner bakes as a creative outlet after an IT day job, focusing on small-batch quality rather than mass production. Sourdough lovers should plan ahead, as each loaf gets a slow two-day fermentation. Honestly, I wish I had known about this place before my trip. Fresh bread, homemade baked goods, and a roadside farm stand are exactly the kind of hidden gems I love finding while traveling!!
Downtown Lubec stroll: Downtown Lubec is one of those places where the attraction isn't necessarily a single landmark but the experience of slowing down and wandering. Take a stroll along the waterfront, watch fishing boats come and go, and enjoy the views across the Lubec Narrows toward Campobello Island. I especially enjoyed browsing Lubec Coastal Gifts, where the owners were incredibly welcoming and the selection of locally inspired gifts and souvenirs made it nearly impossible to leave empty-handed. In addition to gifts and local treasures, they now serve seafood baskets and lobster rolls, making it a great place to grab a bite while exploring town. Love at First Light Gift Shop is worth a stop as well. In addition to serving Gifford's ice cream, it offers a great selection of gifts and one of the best views in town, overlooking the international bridge and Campobello beyond.





One of the things that makes a visit to Lubec so unique is how easy it is to hop across the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial Bridge to Campobello Island. In just a few minutes, you'll find yourself in Canada, adding another country, a different perspective, and several worthwhile attractions to your Downeast adventure. It's one of the few places where crossing an international border can feel as casual as driving to the next town over, though you'll still want to remember your passport.
Mulholland Point Lighthouse: Located just across the bridge on Campobello Island, Mulholland Point Lighthouse offers one of the best views of Lubec you'll find anywhere. Built in 1885 to help guide vessels through the narrow passage between Campobello and Maine, the lighthouse remains an active aid to navigation today. While the structure itself is modest compared to some of the region's larger lighthouses, the setting is spectacular. From the shoreline, you'll enjoy panoramic views of the Lubec Narrows, the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial Bridge, downtown Lubec, and the working waterfront beyond. After crossing onto Campobello, make a sharp left onto South Road and continue less than half a mile to the lighthouse parking area. If you're already crossing into Campobello, this easy stop is absolutely worth a few minutes of your time.


Head Harbour Light (East Quoddy Lighthouse): If there is one lighthouse experience in the region that feels like a true adventure, this is it. Located on its own small island off Campobello, Head Harbour Light can only be reached at low tide. The Bay of Fundy’s tides are among the highest in the world, and if you don’t pay attention to the crossing schedule, you’ll find yourself stranded on the island for the next 6 to 8 hours waiting for the water to recede again.
The journey is part of the experience. After crossing exposed rocky sections of shoreline twice, you’ll navigate slippery patches covered in seaweed and rockweed, those familiar brown sea plants dotted with little air-filled balloons. From there, a series of weathered staircases leads down to a beach, back up again, and eventually to the lighthouse itself. I have to admit I felt slightly unnerved making the crossing alone. Despite it being a beautiful day, I didn’t see another person the entire time. Still, that solitude only added to the magic. By the time I reached the lighthouse, with waves crashing below and not another soul in sight, it felt like I had discovered a secret corner of the world.
Built in 1829, Head Harbour Light is the oldest lighthouse in New Brunswick and remains one of the most photogenic. Perched on dramatic cliffs overlooking the entrance to Passamaquoddy Bay, it rewards visitors with stunning views and an experience that’s equal parts lighthouse visit, coastal hike, and tidal adventure. Just don’t forget to keep an eye on the clock. The lighthouse is optional. Getting back before the tide comes in is not.









Roosevelt Campobello International Park: Even if you’re not a history buff, Roosevelt Campobello is worth a visit. The 34-room summer cottage was given to Franklin D. Roosevelt and Eleanor Roosevelt by Franklin’s mother, Sara Delano Roosevelt, as a wedding gift in 1908, though the Roosevelt family had been vacationing on Campobello for years before that. The island became a beloved summer retreat where Franklin sailed, hiked, entertained guests, and escaped the pressures of public life. Eleanor, who would later become one of the most influential First Ladies in history and a champion of human rights around the world, also spent many summers here with family and friends.
At age 39, during a family vacation on the island in August 1921, Franklin developed a sudden illness after spending time sailing, swimming, and enjoying the outdoors. Within days, he was left with paralysis that would permanently alter the course of his life. Campobello was the last place he walked unaided before beginning the long journey that would eventually lead him back into public service and, ultimately, the presidency.
I happened to stumble upon a live guided tour just as I arrived. My first instinct was to quietly slip away and explore on my own, but I’m glad I stayed. The guide was excellent, bringing the Roosevelt family’s story to life with fascinating details and anecdotes that I never would have learned otherwise. It ended up being one of the better free tours I’ve ever been on and added a whole new appreciation for the property.
One of the things I enjoyed most was seeing how personal the cottage feels. Many original furnishings remain, including family belongings and memorabilia left behind after the Roosevelt family's final visit. Keep an eye out for the painting of a sailing ship that later hung in the White House, a tangible connection between Campobello and Roosevelt's presidency. My favorite detail, however, was a kitchen oven bearing the word “President.” It was a gift from Franklin's mother, and I couldn't help but smile. Proof that no matter how successful you become, you're still somebody’s kid, and moms never stop being proud!!
Walking through the cottage offers a fascinating glimpse into the traditions, memories, and experiences that helped shape one of America’s most influential presidents and one of the twentieth century’s most important advocates for human rights. It ended up being one of my favorite stops on Campobello and far more interesting than I expected.









Campobello Gift House: A longtime Campobello Island staple, the Campobello Gift House is the kind of place that's worth wandering through even if you don't think you need a souvenir. Inside you’ll find local gifts, island keepsakes, home decor, apparel, and plenty of Campobello-themed treasures. The Scoop Shack ice cream stand is located just behind the shop, making it an easy stop to browse, grab a cone, and enjoy a slower pace of island life.


Chasing lupines: One of the reasons I was so excited to visit Lubec and Campobello was the chance to see lupines in bloom. They’re one of my favorite flowers, and for me they are one of the surest signs that summer has finally arrived in Maine. Every year I find myself seeking them out, whether along country roads, in open fields, or tucked beside a weathered fence overlooking the ocean.
I know lupines can be a bit controversial. The colorful lupines that blanket so many roadsides across Maine are not native and are considered invasive by some. I understand the ecological concerns, but I have to admit I can’t help but love them. Their tall spires of purple, pink, blue, and white flowers have become so intertwined with my image of a Maine summer that it’s impossible for me not to smile when I spot the first blooms of the season.
While lupines can be found throughout Downeast Maine and New Brunswick, I was surprised by just how many I encountered on Campobello Island. Fields of color seemed to appear around every bend in the road, often with sweeping ocean views as a backdrop. Some of my favorite sightings were completely unplanned. The grounds around The Porch at Friar’s Bay were dotted with lupines, and I stumbled upon several spectacular roadside displays while exploring the island. There was even a field beside a yellow house that looked straight out of a postcard.
Combined with the coastal scenery, fishing villages, and lighthouses, the lupines added a little extra magic to the experience. I realize not everyone plans vacations around flowers, but if you happen to visit Campobello in June, keep your eyes open. For me, spotting lupines across the island was every bit as memorable as checking lighthouses off my list!!
Pro tip: If you're photographing lupines with your phone, switch to portrait mode and get close to a single bloom. The blurred background makes the flowers pop and creates that dreamy purple-and-pink haze that seems to define June in Downeast Maine. Some of my favorite photos from the trip were taken this way.









Bay of Fundy International Marathon: If you happen to visit in June, keep an eye on the calendar for the Bay of Fundy International Marathon, one of the few races in the world that crosses an international border. Runners begin at West Quoddy Head Lighthouse, cross the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial Bridge into Canada, pass Roosevelt Campobello International Park, and experience both Lubec and Campobello in a single race. The race actually took place the day before I arrived, and several locals mentioned the excitement it brings to the area each year. Even if you're not running, race weekend brings extra energy, community events, and visitors to both sides of the border.
Campobello FogFest: If your visit coincides with late July or early August, you're in luck. Campobello FogFest is a free annual celebration of the island's music, art, history, and culture, typically held over the New Brunswick Day long weekend. In 2026, the festival runs from July 29 through August 2 and features live music, local artists, food vendors, community events, and activities spread across various locations on the island, including Herring Cove Provincial Park. The festival's name is fitting because, if my visit was any indication, the fog is practically a local celebrity. What began in 2013 as a way to celebrate and promote the island has grown into one of Campobello's signature events, drawing visitors from both sides of the border while still maintaining the friendly, small-town atmosphere that makes the island so special.
TOURIST MISTAKE VS LOCAL MOVE:
Tourist Mistake: Snap a photo of West Quoddy Head Light and head to the next stop.
Local Move: Lace up your hiking shoes and explore the Coast Guard Trail, Green Point, and The Gulch. Some of the best views in Lubec are found beyond the lighthouse parking lot.Tourist Mistake: Assume every restaurant is open because it’s summer.
Local Move: Check the hours, check Facebook, and maybe have a backup plan. In Lubec, part of the adventure is figuring out what’s actually open today.Tourist Mistake: Admire Head Harbour Light from across the water.
Local Move: Time your visit with the tides and make the walk across the ocean floor to one of the most beautiful and unique lighthouses in the region.Tourist Mistake: Leave with only a lighthouse magnet.
Local Move: Bring home a pocket full of sea glass, a box of locally made chocolates from Monica's, or a Lubec T-shirt that will remind you of the easternmost town in the U.S. long after you've returned home.
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Great thorough post with amazing recs! I've been visiting Maine every year for the past ten years or so, and in one of our first trips, we went from Rangeley to Lubec just for a quick overnight stay to see Quoddy. I do think the Lubec area of Maine is unlike any other, in a great way. I can't seem to stop booking vacations in Midcoast (I just love it so so so much), but another dream vacation would be to have a full week in Lubec to unplug and just sightsee, eat, read, and write. It might be a smaller, remote area, but it certainly packs a punch! I'll save your post for when I finally get around to booking that Lubec week. I think it took me 3+ years of going to Maine to finally remember that Mondays and Tuesdays are the closures/weekends there, so at least I won't be taken by surprise by that anymore 😅
What a great snapshot of our beautiful Lubec and Campobello, thanks for coming and please come back soon…come and see us at Water Street Tavern, you won’t be disappointed.